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Damarland to Swakopmund

October 22, 2000

Bugs!

Well, not using the mosquito net was a mistake. I kept getting woken up by mosquitoes flying near my ears and buzzing around. Come morning, though, I found out something else: I had about half a dozen red welts on my forehead where the mosquitoes had had themselves a drink! They itched for days afterwards.

After a quick breakfast, we headed south towards Cape Cross, a large seal colony near Swakopmund. Everyone was looking forward to Swakopmund, since we would be in real beds and have real showers for the first time in a week! Bliss.

Seals

Cape Cross proved to be a real sinus-cleaner: it STANK. Hundreds of seals (sea lions, actually: you can tell the difference by checking for external ears) made for quite a stench. I breathed through my mouth the whole time we were there.

It had been breeding season recently: I saw lots of baby seals (and quite a few small sad corpses, unfortunately) and a few young still suckling. Cape Cross Seal ColonyThere were several large males strutting around. There were a few groups barking and biting at each other. For the most part, the rest of the sea lions seemed to be trying to get some sleep.

There's a low stone wall between the tourists and the seals: there are signs for the tourists warning them to not cross the wall. No one had told the sea lions this: there were quite a few sunbathing on our side of the wall, including one large female blocking the entrance to the lavatories.

Cape Cross has a little monument to Diego Cao, the Portuguese explorer who originally claimed the cape for the King John II. There's a reproduction of the original cross he erected as well as a more modern monument nearby.

After Cape Cross, we continued on to Swakopmund, stopping for lunch at a small cluster of beachfront housing. A stray dog hovered around looking for scraps as we explored the beach down below the dunes.

Arrival at Swakopmund

We arrived at Swakopmund that afternoon and split up into our rooms. The resort we were at had rooms built into large A-Frames, with shared showers and kitchens. I roomed with Chris & Joanne, while Katja & Martina and Antonio and Christina took a second A-Frame; Geraldine & Jan took the third.

Swakopmund Jetty at SunsetBefore dinner I explored the beach a bit and took a few photos. I met up with Geraldine and Jan at an open-air market similar to the one outside of Etosha, but managed to avoid buying anything. We decided to go find some dinner.

Susanna had told of this great pizza place in town: we went to seek it out. On the way we met up with Chris & Joanne and all went into the pizzeria. It was fairly crowded inside, but we managed to squeeze into one corner.

Dinner was GREAT: you could order individual pizzas, and there was a wide variety to choose from. I got a delicious Greek pizza with anchovies (yum!!). As we were finishing, Katja, Martina, Antonio and Christina showed up, so we stayed and talked while they ate dinner. After a week of camping food, we were in ecstasy!

Tomorrow's schedule came up: Geraldine wanted to do an overflight of the area, and it would be cheaper if more people went. I also wanted to go, but I also wanted to do the Quad biking and sandboarding the next day, so we weren't sure if there would be enough time.  I had already signed up for the Quad biking and sandboarding, so I decided to see if I could skip the Quad biking in favor of the overflight.  However, that would have to wait until tomorrow.

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© 2000  William Geoffrey Shotts. Last update: Saturday, November 02, 2002