We got a few pictures of Andersson's Gate as we
exited Etosha, and a size comparison of the termite mounds
that dotted the countryside. Susanna told us how all the mounds point in the same
direction, apparently to take advantage of the path of the sun and help cool the nest.
On our way to Damarland we made a stop at a petrified
forest. The site was in the middle of nowhere, and we had a brief tour from a slightly
odiferous guide. The place was almost *exactly* like Petrified Forest National Monument in
Arizona, U.S.A. (except rather smaller). There was a little souvenir stall with various
trinkets. It was also scorching hot, and we didn't stay long.
We reached our campsite that afternoon: it consisted mostly of a few A-frames and a shower and toilet (both lacking), plus a
large tank of water. You had to light a fire under the tank if you wanted a hot shower.
Besides the Okovango Delta, this was the most primitive campsite yet.
We had one more sight to see: we took a short drive over to an area where local
Bushmen had carved figures and animals into the rock. This was a *lot* more interesting
than the petrified forest: our guide pointed out the different carvings and paintings, and
described their use and history. The carvings often featured the prints made by various game animals, and were used by the
Bushmen to teach their children how to track the animals. There were pictures of ostriches
(including one being strangled by a man), elephants, springbok, and lion (one with an extraordinarily long tail).
Besides the carvings, there were several natural features that our guide pointed out.
The most famous (and seen on many postcards) was the Mouth of the Lion (named for obvious reasons).
There was also a feature up at the top of a cliff called the Head of the Eagle (again for fairly obvious reasons).
Again there was a souvenir stand: this time I broke down and got a little carved palm
tree nut (with images of giraffes).
Now by this point, the primitive campsites were starting to get the better of some of
the group: so as a treat Susanna took us to a new resort
(it had just opened July 19th) that had been built not too far away. It had a GREAT
little bar (surprise, surprise!) and a pool with a waterfall. I think there were some
discrete inquiries about available rooms as well, but unfortunately it was booked solid.
We sat and talked for a few hours before heading back to camp.
Back at camp, we had the choice of using the A-frames (which were open to the air) or
setting up tents. I and Joanne elected to use a pair of A-frames, while the others used
the tents. Joanne had a mosquito net to set up on hers, while I just used some extra
cushions and my sleeping bag: I had a hat/mosquito net combo in my bag, but didn't use it.
This was a decision that I was to regret later...
Etosha to Damarland