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Harnas to Windhoek

October 18, 2000

Walk with the Lions

Well, Corné and Susanna got things straightened out: we'll have our morning game walk before our drive to Windhoek.  But before that, a few of us took a Walk with the Lions.  Well, they call it a walk: it was more like a ride.

A couple of the guides took us out in the bush and brought out a male and female lion (Mufasa and Savannah, respectively) that had grown up at Harnas.  The lions didn't want to do too much walking: they preferred finding a nice shady spot and relaxing.  A couple of times they tried to jump into our truck!

The lions are quite tame, although the guides gave us all sorts of warnings, including:

bulletDon't run away from the lions
bulletDon't stare at them in the eyes
bulletDon't put your had/face/private parts/whatever in front of the lions' mouth
bulletIf they grab you, don't panic: they will get the lion off
bulletWell, hopefully...
bulletYou might loose a limb, but you've got a spare...

(I'm paraphrasing the last two).

Despite all this, we actually got to pose with the lions, with only minimal loss of life and limb. :-)  Speaking of life and limb, I was a little surprised when the guide decided to wrestle with the lions as they lay in the shade!  After he played with the lions for a while, we headed back to Harnas to catch our game walk.

Morning Walk

While waiting for the walk to start, we had an unfortunate encounter with one of the baboons, which decided to, uh, wave certain of his parts at us (the ladies got a good laugh out of that).  I also got my picture taken with the ostrich that had been roaming around:  apparently you can attract her attention by holding your hand in the air and flapping it like an ostrich beak.  Or maybe she thought we were just idiot tourists.

Our guide Corné took us around the inner courtyard of the reserve, where we saw some banded mongoose (similar to the ones I saw at The Kingdom), and got to pet a couple of friendly meerkats (suricates) named "Koerie" and "Moerie".  They fed the meerkats while we watched, and one of the baboons from the adjoining cage kept trying to steal their food!  The baboon (called "Smitty") was a notorious food thief, apparently.

It was feeding time all over the reserve: we used a fishing hook to toss chunks of meat to a huge crocodile that was separated in its own area (for good reason, I should think).

Corné talked about the park and how it had developed over the years.  They have major concern now: since they generally have bought animals the local farmers had trapped (to give them an incentive to not kill them) they had inadvertently created a market for the animals.  They were working on ways to prevent or control this problem.

Also, not all of the animals they get recover: she showed us a custom-built stroller that was used by a cheetah that had both its back legs crushed.  Despite its handicap, it was apparently a very friendly animal and got along well at the reserve.  Unfortunately it died a few years later from bone cancer.

Babies!

Walking around to some of the other areas, we sat in a courtyard while some baby cheetahs were brought in!  They were quite playful and were jumping all over each other.  To prevent them (or us!) from getting overexcited, we were brought in a few at a time to play with them, and we weren't allowed to walk around with them: just sit and relax.  One girl got a surprise as a cheetah cub decided to chew on her leg, but fortunately she wasn't hurt!

A little later we also got to pose with and adult cheetah, who was far more interested in the shade (like the lions!).

Harnas has an aviary, too: we met a vulture there who's name apparently means "Bad Breath".  An appropriate name for a carrion eater.  Just after the aviary, there was a little shaded area where we had water and scones.  After that, a few at a time they took us over to see a couple more lions relaxing in the shade!  Good idea, too: it had got *very* hot that day!

A few more treats awaited us at the end of the walk.  First they brought out some baby lion cubs.  They were very clumsy and awkward: they had huge feet.  They so cute! We actually got to hold them.  After that, Corné brought out a couple of baby leopards only a few weeks old!  The back of their necks were pink where they had chewed on each other.

One final treat: in a little box in the corner, there was a family of jackal cubs that had lost their mother: they stick together in the box and only come out at night: you could see a little nose poke out every once in a while!Herero Woman

Winding our Way to Windhoek

After the game walk it was time to drive to Windhoek, the capital of Namibia.  We stopped for snacks at one point, where I saw a woman in a traditional Herero dress.

We got to Windhoek that evening: it's situated in a very mountainous region of Namibia: I remember wondering at the time where the airport was going to be, because it would be a bumpy ride out of here at the end of my tour!  (We passed the airport about a half-hour outside of town, as it turned out).  Our campsite for the night had that ultimate luxury: grass!  After several days of camping on dirt, it would be a welcome change.

There was a small bar on the campsite grounds, so we all went there to relax after dinner.  Tomorrow we would drive up to Etosha: I couldn't wait!

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© 2000  William Geoffrey Shotts. Last update: Saturday, November 02, 2002